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November 13, 2002

El Porto

I got totally Porto'd this afternoon. The waves (6-8 foot faces) were breaking 4 times before reaching the shore, and I only made it out past the 4th once or twice. That's paddling non-stop, through 3 major waves, just to get far enough out where you sit on your board and watch for the right one to catch. It's absolutely exhausting. Raz caught some great ones though, at times cruising 100-150 yards down the beach. Trouble is, once you've ridden one in (Raz) or been sucked back to shore (me), you've gotta paddle *all the way* back out there again. El Porto kicked my ass, period.

Posted at 17:18
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