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November 11, 2002

Surfing

Raz is teaching me how to surf; we got started this morning at Bay Street/Santa Monica, coincidentally where skateboarding was born. The first big winter storm just rolled through over the weekend, sending SoCal a nice N/NW swell. The waves had 6-8' faces but were mostly closed out, and there was a gnarly southern lateral current that yanked us down the beach all morning. Don't you love surfer lingo?

Posted at 18:37
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Comments

Yeah, the water definitely wasn't the crystal-blue Hawaiian stuff...

Posted by Eric on November 12, 2002 at 09:01

Hahaha, better watch out Eric:

Poo patrol: 7 (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

Posted by Chuck on November 12, 2002 at 06:38
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